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America's dangerous dietary split.

by Mark Winne

Beacon Press {1}

AlterNet (January 09 2008)


The following is an excerpt from Mark Winne's new book, Closing the Food
Gap: Resetting the Table in the Land of Plenty {2}.

As a class, lower income people have been well represented in some of
the best-covered food stories of our day, particularly hunger, obesity,
and diabetes. As these issues have faded in and out of the public's eye
over the last 25 years, another food trend was rapidly becoming a
national obsession - namely, local and organic.

At about the same time that Berkeley diva Alice Waters was first showing
us how to bestow style and grace on something as ordinary as a local
tomato, the Reagan administration's anti-poor policies were driving an
unprecedented number of people into soup kitchens and food banks. And as
organic food advocates were putting the finishing touches on what was to
become the first national standard for organic food, supermarket chains
were nailing plywood across their city store windows bidding farewell to
lower income America.

Organic food and agriculture had barely climbed out of the bassinet in
1989 when Sixty Minutes ran its now famous Alar story. The exposure it
received before forty million television viewers ignited a firestorm of
consumer reaction that eventually made organic food the fastest growing
segment of the US food industry.

Yuppie families reacted first. Like every parent since time immemorial,
these parents wanted what was best for their children, and the emerging
evidence that our food supply was tainted accelerated their desire for
the healthiest and safest food possible. Though the research surrounding
the health and safety attributes of various foods remained foggy,
competing claims opened up a never ending number of consumer options.
One's food choices may be vegetarian, vegan, organic, grass-fed,
free-range, humanely raised, or some combination of these. As to the
source of this food, it could range from "generally local when it's easy
to get" to "obsessively local and will eat nothing else".

In low-income circles, however, such food anxieties got little traction.
Between getting to a food store where the bananas weren't black and
having enough money to buy any food at all, low-income shoppers had
little inclination to parse the differences between grass-fed and
grass-finished. But this didn't imply that their awareness of organic
food was non-existent, nor did it mean that low-income consumers were
less likely to buy organic if they had the chance.


Low-Income Shoppers Speak

To better understand a variety of issues, the Hartford Food System, a
Connecticut-based non-profit organization that I directed for 24 years,
would often meet with low-income families to get their point of view. On
one such occasion, we asked eight members of Hartford's Clay/Arsenal
neighborhood to discuss local and organic food. Like other impoverished
urban neighborhoods, Clay/Arsenal was entirely devoid of good quality
food stores, and their residents experienced hunger, obesity, and
diabetes at rates that were two to three times the national average.
This group was comprised exclusively of Hispanic and African American
residents.

First off, the group expressed an immediate consensus that fresh,
inexpensive food - the food they generally preferred - was unavailable
in their neighborhood. Everyone agreed that traveling to a full-line
supermarket was a hassle because it required one or two long bus rides
or an expensive taxi fare. As a result, they did their major shopping
once or twice a month, and when they shopped, price was their most
important consideration.

When asked what the word organic meant to them, the residents answered
"real food", "natural", "healthy", and "you know what's in it". While
they believed that organic food was preferable to food they described as
"processed", "full of chemicals", or "toxic", they said that buying
organic food wasn't even an option, because it was simply not available
to them. One young woman made a point of saying that she didn't trust
the environment where she lived or the food she ingested. "Everything
gives you cancer these days", she said. Conversely, there was an
underlying tone of confidence in the safety and healthfulness of food
that they could identify as local and organic.

Their awareness of the benefits of local and organic food was very high.
For the elderly, there was the nostalgic association with tastes,
places, and times gone by. For those with young children, there was an
apprehension that nearly everything associated with their external
environment, including food, was a threat. Like parents of all races,
education levels, and occupations, these moms wanted what was best for
their children as well, even when they knew that what was best was not
available to them.


Local and Organic Go Mainstream

"In a burst of new interest in food", spouted Newsweek's 2006 food
issue, "Americans are demanding - and paying for - the freshest and
least chemically treated products available". Whole Foods' John Mackey
told the Wall Street Journal, "The organic-food lifestyle is not a fad
... It's a value system, a belief system. It's penetrating into the
mainstream."

As we cast our eye over the sheer effulgence of American food, there
appears to be no limit to the type and number of food products for those
who are motivated by taste, environmental concern, animal welfare,
political correctness, or simple virtue. Niman Ranch produces a pork to
die for, and costs significantly more than the factory-farmed
alternative. Don't want to spend the "best four years of your life"
eating swill from the college cafeteria trough? Select from any of
hundreds of colleges and universities that are now featuring
"sustainable dining" (some inspired by master chef Alice Waters). And
when you just can't find anything that satisfies your organic lifestyle
where you live, you can always pack up and leave. The New York Times
style page featured a number of families who had the financial
wherewithal to escape from New York City to the Hudson River valley.
Once there, the families "began eating strictly organic foods". One
couple said they had moved because the wife was pregnant with their
second child and "we decided that the children needed to be in nature".

Sounds pretty good. In fact, it just may be the latest incarnation of
the American dream. But what about those who can't escape or afford to
eat "strictly organic" or for whom "buying local" means the past-code
date, packaged baloney at the neighborhood bodega? How do we fulfill the
desire for healthy and sustainably produced food that is increasingly
shared by all?

There are two general directions that have shown promise in closing this
food gap: one is through private, largely non-profit projects and the
other is through public policy. At the Hartford Food System we founded
the Holcomb Farm Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Farm that made an
explicit commitment to distribute about forty percent of its local and
organic produce to the city's low-income community. Using a hybrid
method of funding, CSAs like the Holcomb Farm (Just Food in New York
City and the Western Massachusetts Food Bank in Hadley are other
examples) have been organized around the country to ensure that CSAs are
not solely the province of a white, bright elite. Other models like the
People's Grocery in Oakland are using mobile markets to bring high
quality, healthy food into communities that are underserved by supermarkets.

Public policy advocacy has leveraged federal and state funding to
provide special farmers' market vouchers to low-income women, children,
and elders (Farmers Market Nutrition Program). These small denomination
coupons have opened an increasing share of the nation's 4,500 farmers'
markets to a wider demographic of shoppers. Along the same lines, a
small but steady stream of farmers' markets are installing swipe card
machines to enable food stamp recipients to use their electronic benefit
transfer (EBT) cards to buy local food. And in what might be the biggest
breakthrough yet, the national Women, Infant, and Children Program (WIC)
will be implementing a new fruit and vegetable program that is
potentially worth hundreds of million dollars to lower income consumers
and local farmers.

While it may be some time before we see a Whole Foods open in East
Harlem, non-profit organizations like the Philadelphia-based Food Trust
have secured millions of dollars in state financing to develop food
stores in underserved urban and rural Pennsylvania communities. As part
of an overall economic development strategy, these stores are not only
providing new sources of healthy and affordable food to low-income
families, they are also expanding employment opportunities and the local
property tax base.

These projects and policies have inched us closer to bridging the divide
between the haves and have-nots, but unless every segment of society
rejects the notion that there is one food system for the poor, and one
for everyone else, these gains will remain marginal.

Links:

{1} http://www.beacon.org/

{2} http://www.beacon.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1870


Mark Winne was the executive director of the Hartford Food System for 25
years. His first book "Closing the Food Gap: Resetting the Table in the
Land of Plenty" was published by Beacon Press in January 2008.

Copyright (c) 2008 Independent Media Institute. All rights reserved.

http://www.alternet.org/story/72417/

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